Welcome to the first blogpost of 2020! So, this isn’t my first pair of jeans, but it is the first I am really proud of. Why? Because I changed the fit and now I really love it! I made these jeans with the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern. I made the tapered leg version as I thought I would like something else then my standard skinny jeans. So if you want to know more about my review of the Dawn jeans, read on!
Fabric: black jeans
It is recommended to use a non-stretching fabric. However, I had this black jeans fabric with a little bit of stretch in it from Budgetstoffen that I wanted to use for my Dawn jeans. I did prewash it and dried it in the dryer to prevent any shrinking later on. I couldn’t find the fabric on their site anymore so I guess it’s no longer available..
Other materials that I used:
- Jeans needles
- Polyester thread
- Black top stitching thread on a separate sewing machine
Details on the Dawn Jeans pattern:
If I look at how many patterns I make from one designer, it’s most often just 1. I really love the patterns from Megan so much that I already made much more of her patterns! I never had any problems in sewing them up and the instructions are really detailed! I think she even has an app with sewing instructions for apple, but this android girl doesn’t have an iPhone or tablet so can’t check it out for you. Next pattern on my list is actually the Ash jeans, a skinny jeans pattern that I really want to test!
I left out the interfacing on the waistband. Because my tummy area needs more space at the end of the day I really like it when my waistbands are flexible. Sometimes I do use knit interfacing, but since this fabric is quite heavy already I hope it’s gonna be fine.
I traced a size 20 for the waist area and graded back to a size 14 from the crotch on. If you want to know how to do this: I used the very clear explanation in the (free!) Abb Legging pattern from the Do It Better Yourself club. My waist measurement is actually not a size 20 but a size 18. However, I carry more of my weight on the front. In the book Pants for Real people it is recommended to pick one size bigger than your waist if you carry most of it in the front. This way the front will fit better and the back side can be taken in, while still having the side seam where they are supposed to be.
In most of the pants I made, I had the feeling that the angle of the top part of the pants compared to the angle of the legs of the pants wasn’t right for my posture. I tried to google on tilted pelvis (what it seems to be) but I couldn’t find a right way to correct it. Then I found something called ‘balancing the legs’ in the Pants Fitting Guide from Gina Renee. It’s also free to download so check it out! It also changes the angle of the top part of the pants vs the legs. So, I don’t understand completely what is going on but I know I like the final fit of these pants!
Notes for me when I make this again:
Because of the stretch I ended up taking at least 2cm’s from the top width of my Dawn jeans, resulting in a pockets that are a bit small to access. So, next time, either pick a size 18 for the top or make sure your hands fit the pockets in another way..
New to me:
I couldn’t find a zip of the right length, so I shortened one. I don’t think I shortened it enough because it was competing with my buttonhole later on. I think I left 5 mm of zipper in the waistband itself but that I will remove next time as well. I would prefer to have no zip teeth in the waistband area anymore, because of this I had to move the buttonhole a bit more to a place where it’s actually not in a right spot.
I’ve gone ‘wild’ on my pockets and embroidered my initials on one of the pockets. In black top stitching thread. So, not that wild, but a fun detail for me because I KNOW it’s there! Did you ever embellished your back pockets?
If you want to start making your own jeans you can join my sewing class on wednesday evenings!